Captain’s log – diversion to Sydney

Summoned down south this weekend by associate crew in Sydney to celebrate sibling’s birthday. My arrival was unannounced and a surprise to the birthday girl in question.

I’d conspired with creative brother in law ( BIL) to keep weekend visit a secret. Expecting overseas corporate visitors from Alabama, sister patiently awaited visitor’s arrival at Kingsford Smith airport, as instructed, accompanied by BIL. Prior to this, many elaborate fictional explanations had been fabricated by BIL about special company director’s visit, the need for wife and husband to personally meet and greet her etc, to keep the scheme a secret.

At sight of sister disembarking aircraft birthday sister’s computational equipment froze. Unable to process information she was rendered speechless, and it was touch and go for a while there as to whether electric shock therapy would be required to restart verbal capacitors and neural connectors.

Fortunately, technical intervention was not required, and normal function resumed in said wife. Husband was eventually forgiven for telling a pack of lies, and Captain was allowed to land in home port without retribution despite complicity in the deceptive plot.

Captain is delighted to report that birthday celebrations were gastronomically exquisite and suitably well lubricated with some of Australia’s best reds and whites.

Captain returns to port of Brisbane this evening, with supplies from the Emerald City, and a little touch of homesickness. Immersion in studies on Monday will dispel any distracting thoughts about distance from nearest and dearest.

Brisbane

Latitude: 27°S, 153°E
Weather: 9°C to 21°C
Time: GMT +10 hours

So here I am in Brisbane, 2 weeks into my studies, 7 weeks from Darwin and 25 weeks away from Christmas. The Captain has arrived. New moorings. I’m ready to check out the harbour and the locals.

Three Ways - corner of Stuart and Barkly Highways

Let’s do a bit of calculation beforehand.

Firstly, 3,700kms across the dusty dry inland of Australia, many kilometres on the Stuart Highway south through Northern Territory and east through Queensland, travelling in my truly well stocked outback vehicle, the trusty 2WD Honda Civic, with 200 or so kilometres of deviations. Secondly, add to that 5,116kms flying, return trip, Brisbane to Dunedin, the university town on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand. There the temperature goes from 8°C to 11°C – yes, cold, cold and more cold, gloves and hat all the time.

Paused there amongst those near vertical, 90° inclines they call city streets for a couple of weeks to visit offspring, and waited while a big black cloud dispersed, not the rainy grey rain clouds that hang over Dunedin all the time, but the Chilean volcanic ash cloud that drifted across the Southern Ocean from South America, disrupting flights in and out of the Land of the Long White Cloud.

Milford Sound

Plus thirdly – are you still with me? – a side trip while in NZ over a slow, winding road to Te Aneu and Milford Sound on the west coast to see a magnificent fjord. That’s another say 1,000kms. BTW: I’d go back to Milford any time, well when it’s a bit warmer, it’s never going to get any less wet as it rains over 6 metres a year, and next time I’d walk the 4 days, 3 nights along the Milford Track, slapping at sandflies at every step, or paddle on one of their glorious lakes.

In all, kilometres travelled were in the vicinity of 9,816kms (May-June). That doesn’t also take into account an additional deviation around Easter time, just prior to leaving Darwin in April, which included a 4WD to the mining service town of Kununurra (WA) and Lake Argyle (blissful – you must go there!) plus a boat trip up the Victoria River (NT) to see crocs, jabirus and you guessed it, another glorious sunset.

Lake Argyle and the Kimberleys

What are we up to now, checking the calculator . . . that’s 855kms Darwin to Kununurra, and back, which equals 1,710kms, excluding river travel and side trips, added to the Darwin-Brisbane-NZ jaunting, that means over the last few months, approximately 16,226kms. (I hope my maths friends are impressed with my sudden interest in numbers.) It’s all a bit more than the usual 5kms I used to travel to and from work each day in Darwin, and it beats watching TV.

So how is my climate/cultural coping gauge going? Going from the dry season and the tropics of Darwin, to the arid inland of Australia, to the miserable cold sub-Antarctic weather of Dunedin, to the sublime alpine icebox of Milford, and back to the mild, clear, sub-tropical winter of Brisbane – am I confused? Yes always. But more so than usual after this little Sunday outing – I don’t know if I’m cold or hot, whether I should put on mittens or shorts, and should I look for a café (Oz) or a dairy (NZ) for that mid-morning latte? But I still miss the Territory. It clearly has not finished with me. Once you’ve been there you are changed. ‘They’ say that, and you know it. The changes are probably much to the horror of my southern friends, but carpe diem!

Captain’s Log – views of the landscape

Day 9: Darwin to Brisbane

Position: Dalby QLD,  27S, 151.2E
Elevation: 343m
Rainfall: 643mm
Population: 9,700
Temperature: 3C

Approximate distance travelled Darwin to Dalby: 3,400km. The night was cold but retreated to a cabin last night. Brisbane only a couple of hours away.
Pics for the record from Mataranka to Mt Isa.

Bitter Springs near Mataranka: spring water with a touch of limestone, about 33C but few fish and no crocs

Elsey Homestead near Mataranka: Replica of home of Aeneas and Jeannie Gunn (We of the never Never). Wide verandahs and high ceilings cool the house.

Heading east towards Mt Isa. Lots of red earth and then a mountain full of silver, lead, zinc and copper.

Barkly Tableland: Flat treeless land. Fantastic. And look at that crisp blue sky. not even a road train in sight.

Captain’s Log – Tambo

Friday 27 May 2011, Tambo QLD
Day 8 – Darwin to Brisbane
24.8°S, 146.2° E.
Elevation: 401 m
Rainfall: 529mm
Population: 360

Conditions are severe. Night time temperatures have dropped to near zero, and Captain forced to wear all available clothing to bed so unable to rotate or move at all really inside sleeping bag. Considered kidnapping one of the roaming camp dogs from a neighbouring mooring as means of warmth. Instruments are also suffering from the severe cold, double click on mouse key gives poor or no response, and electronic lock on car does not operate in morning till batteries warmed by placing keys in pocket for 10 minutes. This caused untold alarm the first time it occurred.

Even more seriously, Captain has been seen crossing the camp ground in night attire in early hours of morning heading for ablutions block wearing thick red walking socks and thongs, black beanie, pink and grey check shortie pyjamas, blue mittens, and thermal top. Clearly Darwin influenced. Fashion police may be alerted and Captain reported for offences under Dressing Outrageously While on Holiday Act.

Have been reflecting on the recent overnight accommodation and decided that there is some absurdity in the choices. At Barkly Homestead, NT, the tent was pitched in the middle of a large paddock, with nothing but kilometre after kilometre of bleached, dry grass, and a mooing bullock over the fence looking fondly at my toast and tea, while I watched it keep its distance, and the sun rise. Now at Tambo, I am in the middle of something that approximates a backyard, a very nice backyard nonetheless, sitting on a chair next to the power supply in the backyard, with a blanket around my shoulders, barely able to type as fingers are rigid with cold, (estimated temperature, 2°C), and children about to go in the nearby school yard. No visible sunrise yet…hidden by housing occupied by some of the 360 people who live here in this village.

Eight bells. Must completed storage of goods and weigh anchor, destination Roma.

The Captain thanks support from home port and urges team to keep in contact throughout treacherous journey south.

Captain’s Log – Cloncurry

Tuesday 24 May 2011, Cloncurry QLD
Day 5 – Darwin to Brisbane
20.7°S, 140.0° E.

Have received orders from central command to move south. Anchors have been hauled in, tearful farewells made, embraces exchanged, and ties with Darwin dock severed, for the present.  I have opted for accommodation on the ensuing journey via Oztrail tent, backed up by portable table and chair, and the ever reliable Honda Civic.

The recent trip south west from home port at Easter time, with faithful companion Esther, was an excellent preparatory journey for this major undertaking to the south east, as the Easter foray was one week in duration and camping all the way in similar style. The one exception on that very memorable trip to Lake Argyle, (WA), Kununurra (WA) and Victoria River (NT) was that we took the mighty Troop ship (the Toyota Landcruiser). The capacity of that vessel was endless: a vehicle with Tardis-like qualities. The Honda is somewhat more limited, and as it is packed to the gunwales with not only camping gear but all the Captain’s left-over-cannot-be-trusted-to-the-removalists-paraphernalia, every nook and cranny is filled beyond fillability. Nonetheless, the crew manages the cramped quarters well, and enjoys every moment.

Day 5. Ports of call along the way have included Katherine Gorge, Daly River Roadhouse and Pub, Barkly Homestead, and now finally Cloncurry, the first QLD stop. The weather this morning is cool, the Captain has goose bumps on her legs, but the air is clear, the sky blue and the sun warming the tent quite nicely. We are now 8 degrees of latitude further south than previous, and the Captain has been seen rummaging through her backpack in search of thermals, given that the tropics are now far behind us.

The Captain opted for the smaller port of Cloncurry for the night of Day 4, as the planned stop at Mt Isa, on reflection, seemed a poor choice. As expected the mine dominates the town, and the town is all about the mine, and the Captain thought that might be interesting. But it wasn’t. So the map was consulted, the itinerary reviewed, and the command given to drive through, after making a stop for provisions at the mighty Coles.

Onwards to Longreach and the Stockmans’ Hall of Fame.

Captain’s log

The ship has been temporarily diverted once again to southern climes. The Port of Melbourne is providing safe harbour for the crew. The weather varies here between inclement and frost-biten stillness. This has reminded the Captain of the value of always packing thermal underwear whenever travelling south beyond latitude 12°.

The inhabitants of this port, at 37°S, typically dress in grey or black, walk with rapid strides, and hunch against the wind, willing their jackets to more adequately cover their frozen bones. Some wear devices fixed to their ears which induce a trance-like state and most likely transmit audio signals which increase blood pressure and therefore general personal warmth.

I am gathering data whilst in Melbourne and this new knowledge cargo will be important for maintenance of the ship and its crew when once again back in Darwin. I will also visit several ship chandlers and stock up on essential items such as footwear, reading matter, technological equipment etc, as this port is well known for the quality and quantity of choice in all objects relating to retail therapy.

Captain’s Log, Darwin Show

The crew downed tools for a special land excursion yesterday. We visited The Darwin Show, out in the dust and heat off the Stuart Highway, near to, but not over the Berrimah line. (Once the Berrimah line is crossed, ie you reach Palmerston, a packed lunch is required apparently . . .) So minus a  packed lunch, but equipped with a hat and a cheerful disposition, we passed through The Show gates, for the princely sum of $17.

We were astounded by the huge pumpkins, amazed by the fascinating things that can be done with eggs, grateful for the South Australian wine tasting stand, and gobsmacked by the size of the caged pigeons and chooks: they grow ‘em big here in the Territory.

Mid way we moored at the CWA tent. Bliss. Those ladies are still supporting the community with extraordinary vigor. A cup of tea and a good sit down and we were ready for part 2 of our Show Day adventure.

Best conversations of the day? (1) with the fellow from the Northern Land Council who also gave us a free hat, and ( 2) the bloke from the Darwin City Council who talked with me about keeping dogs and cats in this tropical city. (I now know cats are not allowed to be ‘at large’ – at large, that sounds like they are friends of Dracula, but they are not meant to stalk those dear frill-necked lizards, grumpy brush hens and placid green frogs found in everyone’s garden.)

Will I go again? Hmmmm – seen one show, seen them all?

Captain’s Log

It is a month since I reported for Darwin duty and log writing.  Hopefully this neglect will not continue and regular contributions will continue as expected.

The reason for the lack of input is not due, as you might  suppose, to tropical fever, a couple of broken wrists, or mechanical failure.  The only reason I can possibly suggest is  exhaustion after catering to the needs of southern visitors, both  family and friend. (Don’t get me wrong – how good was it to have them here! Come back! Come back! Please stay another day in Paradise!).

Also, the Captain and crew were diverted temporarily to the Douglas Daly River for  a protracted long weekend. This required much preparation (how many eskies are we taking?), and deprivations to be endured – eg suffering around a camp fire in the dark of night with a glass or red in hand under a spectacular milky way, or swimming in a pristine tropical stream, etc. So, there is no doubt I have been busy and unable to keep proper records.

On another matter, I must make mention once again about how impressed I am with the local wildlife. I was reminded of the need for constant vigilance when it comes to our friends who have adapted themselves so superbly to living by the water’s edge. (Was this one really found in my backyard the other day?)

How adapted can you be to Darwin life – these creatures like temperatures between 30-33C (Darwin’s temperature all year round). They arrive and leave without a ripple in the water, silent and cunning. They scare the bloody hell out of one and all.

Healthy respect is important I think, if you want to live another day in the north, visit yet another market, or spend another day watching the sun set over the Timor Sea.

You said what?!

Captain’s log: Robyn’s ship re-berthed

After six months in a superior city berth, and eight months in an Alawa granny flat, I have steered Robyn’s adventure ship to Leanyer, and upgraded to a modern well-lit flat, complete with indoor kitchen. The crew is greatly excited and has already celebrated with champagne and fish baked in a regular full-sized oven. The facilities are wonderful. The brightness of the light and the ceiling fans ensure general improvement in health and sense of well-being. Unfortunately we leave behind two smoochy golden retriever companions, a plunge pool, a beautiful tropical garden and an excellent landlord. In Alawa I welcomed becoming acquainted with Darwin’s wildlife (numerous frogs – in and out of toilet and kitchen sink), dive-bombing grasshoppers and quicksilver geckos, but will not miss toad-sized cockroaches, assorted mice, wild bees, and ants intent on digging through the foundations of the living room wall. First attempts to secure moorings in new location have been successful and anchors well secured (which translates to – most boxes have been unpacked, and everything has a place). Even attempts at writing have resumed, following a temporary interruption of a good six to twelve months.

Captain’s log: Becalmed down south

Due to extended southern visit, find self temporarily marooned with second son in Melbourne. Must submit to being fed by excellent chef, reading and lazing around all day long.

Weather report – we swelter in 37C heat – but still nothing like that of my adopted northern city. Here we are likely to evaporate, to disappear like a genie into a bottle. In Darwin there is danger of being washed away in a river of sweat. Recent communcations from Darwin indicate that rain has not fallen there either for some time, however. World somewhat topsy turvy.

To keep self amused during becalmed period am reading cook book – probably classified as fiction in the book shop, but which bits are fiction and which bits are fact is immaterial. Writing style keeps me engaged and, surprisingly, wanting to continue reading about sloppy aspic, the innards of murdered lobsters, and disembowelled ducks. 500 recipes – who would have thought that could make for most entertaining Christmas-time reading ( Julie and Julia, Julie Powell).

Weather report predicts more heat ahead, so strange reading/viewing to continue. Perhaps a bout of Lost in Austen (DVD) will suffice tonight.